Editor’s Letter
Tyler Brûlé takes stock of where we are now and how we should move forwards. Let’s go!The opener
Whether your preferred method of travel is a leisurely paddle around Hong Kong, strapping on in-line skates to risk life and limb in Canada or a supremely stylish bike ride in Milan, there’s plenty to inspire in the following pages. Oh, and there’s an ode to a slower pace of life – so why not choose a path less trodden? It’s time to get a move on.Cosy corner
Fareed Zakaria is a CNN host, columnist for ‘The Washington Post’ and bestselling author. He’s a busy man with a busy mind. But there’s one place in New York where he can always go to collect his thoughts: the leafy enclave of Riverside Park. You’ll find him jogging, strolling or simply contemplating his green surroundings.
Bold moves
Whether by plane, train or e-tractor, cities and nations are rising to the challenge of getting the world from A to B.Bosphorous blues
A decade ago Istanbul was seen as an open, liberal city where culture still came together with ease. But now people are facing tougher times.Affairs Briefing
Trump brings the fight to mayors, how India tested China’s resolve with a road, Germany learns from medical evacuations and the evolving role of landscaping.Calling the tune
This summer, our Monocle 24 radio station is broadcasting interviews with key thought leaders from across the globe. Here we revisit 10 of the most insightful so far, from political leaders to newspaper editors, humanitarians to architects.
Good spot
Even in a suppressed economy, opportunity is everywhere. We meet the residents of Nicosia who are forging their own path and highlight cities on the up.Business Briefing
Why the future of mobility is more pedestrian than we think – and long-distance doctors.On the right track?
Where’s my parcel? How far have I run? Where have I been? The desire to track and trace everything is booming. But have we become slaves to these apps and devices – and do they really deliver on their promises?
Word up
There’s a newfound appetite for reliable news and positive storytelling. We meet the people aiming to feed it.Culture Briefing
As this unusual summer turns to autumn it seems that the most striking cultural offerings around reflect the times. From a spooky take on the civil rights-era US to alien hunters, dystopian societies, catastrophe and, yes, Japanese electropop, our pick of what’s good for the eyes, ears and mind has a thrilling, otherworldly feel. Get ready for a stroll along the road less travelled.
Going for gold
The International Olympic Committee’s HQ is on top of the podium when it comes to office design.Give us a wave
Eladio Dieste made brick beautiful. Now the Uruguayan’s curved aesthetic is proving to be more relevant than ever.Table for two
Boffi De Padova is known for its smart group of design-led Italian furniture brands. An eye for tactility and artisan craft has drawn the company into a new collaboration with Japanese firm Time & Style.Design Briefing
A round-up of the industry headlines, from the Danish architects reimagining the concept of play to the best furniture releases you might have missed this summer.The Monocle shop
We’re here to kit you out with a versatile collection of clothes and accessories whatever the weather. Choose a polo for sunny days, a jacket for balmy evenings or a button-down for work – these pieces can be mixed and matched, and dressed up or down.
Plate expectations
We make for the shoreline of the Baltic in Stockholm, where Tommy Myllymäki opened Aira earlier this year. In a berth in a boathouse-style structure, this restaurant serves haute cuisine without starchy service or New Nordic strictures. This isn’t a spot for a forgettable lunch; it’s a fresh take on destination dining.Food and Drink Briefing
Food-focused finds from Hong Kong to Vienna, and three companies providing meals on wheels.My Last Meal: Jim Muir
The veteran British correspondent in the Middle East settles into a favourite Beirut haunt to discuss covering Lebanon’s civil war, opening an office in Tehran and how Twitter changed journalism – as well as his enduring appetite for the region’s food.
Sole focus
Hit the ground running this autumn in style-savvy trainers that are fit for the city.On a roll
Denim production once defined US textile manufacturing but a focus on quantity over quality nearly snuffed it out. Now Vidalia Mills is bucking the fast-fashion trend. We meet the founders of the first denim mill to open in the country this century.Fashion Briefing
From Japan to Spain, we uncover fashion’s top moments and discover why bricks and mortar done well will always bring in the crowds.Good to go
On the move? Whether you’re getting into your stride on foot or hitting the town on two wheels, now is the time to travel in style – and the residents of Munich are leading the way.
Small wonder
Looking for an escape that feels a world away from the usual islands and crowded beaches? The autonomous Åland Islands between Finland and Sweden have great food, peerless shops and long days of sunshine.Travel briefing
We focus on a selection of the planet’s finest new hotels and drop in on the shop that sells everything you’ll need to capture the moment once you get to them.Room for all
The Danish capital’s latest hotel venture pays homage to its past life as the city’s central post office. It gets our stamp of approval.Good sport
As the world gets moving again, it’s time for us to pick up the pace. Here’s our selection of the sports and fitness attire to help you shift into a higher gear – and look good while you’re at it.
Hungary for more?
The Magyars, as Hungarians are sometimes known, landed in the Carpathian Basin a millennium ago – and you can see why they stayed. The Central European nation has surprises aplenty. There’s never been a better time to take the road less trodden.Laying down routes
Searching for places that are untrampled by mass tourism, where the wines are well made and well priced, we recommend a trip or two beyond Hungary’s capital to its surrounding regions.City of culture and charm
Although this guide focuses on the lesser known parts of Hungary, most international visitors will travel through the nation’s postcard-pretty capital of fairy-tale castles and soaring spires. Here we suggest the top tables, best hotels and a few key cultural venues within a city rightly referred to as the Pearl of the Danube. Enjoy your stay.Look north
Don’t let Pannonhalma’s quiet demeanour fool you: this small town of 4,000 – 130km west of the capital and close to the borders of Slovakia and Austria – is one of Hungary’s most important centres of wine-making. Here we explore the town and its surrounding region.Better lake than never
Lake Balaton is the closest that landlocked Hungary comes to having a seaside and the mood here is one of maritime merriment, thanks to boating, watersports and swimming when the mercury rises. The towns on the lake’s north bank are some of the nation’s most picturesque.Don’t miss the south
In Hungary’s southern reaches, the landscape becomes wilder, flatter and more remote.Go with the flow
This sinuous stretch of the Danube above Budapest (and just half an hour’s drive away) offers gentle views and forests where visitors can hike, swim and canoe – or explore its towns by ferry or on foot. The locals call it Dunakanyar.Mountain escape
The city of Eger is a jumping-off point to explore the highlights of northern Hungary, from treks to the country’s highest peaks to dips in the area’s curative waters.Glass half full
The Tokaj region may be synonymous with sweet wine but this green patch of eastern Hungary has much more in the cellar, on the plate and beyond.A taste of the action
Wine tastings naturally dominate any visitor’s agenda in Tokaj but cultural and outdoor options abound. And when you’ve finished with the action there’s still time to hoist a glass.Our top trips and treats
From a hike that will reward you with a spectacular view to our recommendations for tasty bites and delectable sips, here’s how to make the most of your time in Hungary.
Monocle’s September issue celebrates the marvels of mobility while issuing a call to arms for us all to get outside and make the most of our cities. In a packed issue, we profile the transport movers making it a pleasure to get from A to B and highlight the small cities you’ll want to settle in to start your next venture. Plus: a tasty Hungary survey. Let’s get moving.
Issue 136
September 2020
At the front
Editor’s Letter
Tyler Brûlé takes stock of where we are now and how we should move forwards. Let’s go!The opener
Whether your preferred method of travel is a leisurely paddle around Hong Kong, strapping on in-line skates to risk life and limb in Canada or a supremely stylish bike ride in Milan, there’s plenty to inspire in the following pages. Oh, and there’s an ode to a slower pace of life – so why not choose a path less trodden? It’s time to get a move on.Cosy corner
Fareed Zakaria is a CNN host, columnist for ‘The Washington Post’ and bestselling author. He’s a busy man with a busy mind. But there’s one place in New York where he can always go to collect his thoughts: the leafy enclave of Riverside Park. You’ll find him jogging, strolling or simply contemplating his green surroundings.
Affairs
Bold moves
Whether by plane, train or e-tractor, cities and nations are rising to the challenge of getting the world from A to B.Bosphorous blues
A decade ago Istanbul was seen as an open, liberal city where culture still came together with ease. But now people are facing tougher times.Affairs Briefing
Trump brings the fight to mayors, how India tested China’s resolve with a road, Germany learns from medical evacuations and the evolving role of landscaping.Calling the tune
This summer, our Monocle 24 radio station is broadcasting interviews with key thought leaders from across the globe. Here we revisit 10 of the most insightful so far, from political leaders to newspaper editors, humanitarians to architects.
Business
Good spot
Even in a suppressed economy, opportunity is everywhere. We meet the residents of Nicosia who are forging their own path and highlight cities on the up.Business Briefing
Why the future of mobility is more pedestrian than we think – and long-distance doctors.On the right track?
Where’s my parcel? How far have I run? Where have I been? The desire to track and trace everything is booming. But have we become slaves to these apps and devices – and do they really deliver on their promises?
Culture
Word up
There’s a newfound appetite for reliable news and positive storytelling. We meet the people aiming to feed it.Culture Briefing
As this unusual summer turns to autumn it seems that the most striking cultural offerings around reflect the times. From a spooky take on the civil rights-era US to alien hunters, dystopian societies, catastrophe and, yes, Japanese electropop, our pick of what’s good for the eyes, ears and mind has a thrilling, otherworldly feel. Get ready for a stroll along the road less travelled.
Design
Going for gold
The International Olympic Committee’s HQ is on top of the podium when it comes to office design.Give us a wave
Eladio Dieste made brick beautiful. Now the Uruguayan’s curved aesthetic is proving to be more relevant than ever.Table for two
Boffi De Padova is known for its smart group of design-led Italian furniture brands. An eye for tactility and artisan craft has drawn the company into a new collaboration with Japanese firm Time & Style.Design Briefing
A round-up of the industry headlines, from the Danish architects reimagining the concept of play to the best furniture releases you might have missed this summer.The Monocle shop
We’re here to kit you out with a versatile collection of clothes and accessories whatever the weather. Choose a polo for sunny days, a jacket for balmy evenings or a button-down for work – these pieces can be mixed and matched, and dressed up or down.
Entertaining
Plate expectations
We make for the shoreline of the Baltic in Stockholm, where Tommy Myllymäki opened Aira earlier this year. In a berth in a boathouse-style structure, this restaurant serves haute cuisine without starchy service or New Nordic strictures. This isn’t a spot for a forgettable lunch; it’s a fresh take on destination dining.Food and Drink Briefing
Food-focused finds from Hong Kong to Vienna, and three companies providing meals on wheels.My Last Meal: Jim Muir
The veteran British correspondent in the Middle East settles into a favourite Beirut haunt to discuss covering Lebanon’s civil war, opening an office in Tehran and how Twitter changed journalism – as well as his enduring appetite for the region’s food.
Fashion
Sole focus
Hit the ground running this autumn in style-savvy trainers that are fit for the city.On a roll
Denim production once defined US textile manufacturing but a focus on quantity over quality nearly snuffed it out. Now Vidalia Mills is bucking the fast-fashion trend. We meet the founders of the first denim mill to open in the country this century.Fashion Briefing
From Japan to Spain, we uncover fashion’s top moments and discover why bricks and mortar done well will always bring in the crowds.Good to go
On the move? Whether you’re getting into your stride on foot or hitting the town on two wheels, now is the time to travel in style – and the residents of Munich are leading the way.
Inventory
Small wonder
Looking for an escape that feels a world away from the usual islands and crowded beaches? The autonomous Åland Islands between Finland and Sweden have great food, peerless shops and long days of sunshine.Travel briefing
We focus on a selection of the planet’s finest new hotels and drop in on the shop that sells everything you’ll need to capture the moment once you get to them.Room for all
The Danish capital’s latest hotel venture pays homage to its past life as the city’s central post office. It gets our stamp of approval.Good sport
As the world gets moving again, it’s time for us to pick up the pace. Here’s our selection of the sports and fitness attire to help you shift into a higher gear – and look good while you’re at it.
Expo
The Monocle Hungary guide
Hungary for more?
The Magyars, as Hungarians are sometimes known, landed in the Carpathian Basin a millennium ago – and you can see why they stayed. The Central European nation has surprises aplenty. There’s never been a better time to take the road less trodden.Laying down routes
Searching for places that are untrampled by mass tourism, where the wines are well made and well priced, we recommend a trip or two beyond Hungary’s capital to its surrounding regions.City of culture and charm
Although this guide focuses on the lesser known parts of Hungary, most international visitors will travel through the nation’s postcard-pretty capital of fairy-tale castles and soaring spires. Here we suggest the top tables, best hotels and a few key cultural venues within a city rightly referred to as the Pearl of the Danube. Enjoy your stay.Look north
Don’t let Pannonhalma’s quiet demeanour fool you: this small town of 4,000 – 130km west of the capital and close to the borders of Slovakia and Austria – is one of Hungary’s most important centres of wine-making. Here we explore the town and its surrounding region.Better lake than never
Lake Balaton is the closest that landlocked Hungary comes to having a seaside and the mood here is one of maritime merriment, thanks to boating, watersports and swimming when the mercury rises. The towns on the lake’s north bank are some of the nation’s most picturesque.Don’t miss the south
In Hungary’s southern reaches, the landscape becomes wilder, flatter and more remote.Go with the flow
This sinuous stretch of the Danube above Budapest (and just half an hour’s drive away) offers gentle views and forests where visitors can hike, swim and canoe – or explore its towns by ferry or on foot. The locals call it Dunakanyar.Mountain escape
The city of Eger is a jumping-off point to explore the highlights of northern Hungary, from treks to the country’s highest peaks to dips in the area’s curative waters.Glass half full
The Tokaj region may be synonymous with sweet wine but this green patch of eastern Hungary has much more in the cellar, on the plate and beyond.A taste of the action
Wine tastings naturally dominate any visitor’s agenda in Tokaj but cultural and outdoor options abound. And when you’ve finished with the action there’s still time to hoist a glass.Our top trips and treats
From a hike that will reward you with a spectacular view to our recommendations for tasty bites and delectable sips, here’s how to make the most of your time in Hungary.