Editor’s letter
We live in stormy times but sometimes a crisis is a good opportunity to change tack and set a new course. How about Zürich, Hamburg or Fukuoka? The captain of our ship weighs up the possibilities.The opener
We take a good swig of Vienna’s wonderful water and find out why ditching the car has turned our writer into a joyrider. But first: Vancouver’s mini libraries, Latin American litter pickers and Berlin’s barbecues.Back on top
A cable-car service has been brought back to life in Sarajevo. We hitch a ride in a city on the up.It’s all to play for
With World Cup fever sweeping Midori House, we’ve put together a squad of marauding mayoral superstars willing to put in 110 per cent. Ultimately goals win games and, from improving public transport to (two-footed) tackling racism, our team has no shortage of top scorers.Pump action
Proving ballet isn’t just for the young, a troupe of Auckland women in their sixties and beyond is dancing to keep fit and happy.Making waves
Venice’s emergency services – from police on patrol to doctors on call – all rely on one thing: a very fast boat.My cabinet
We meet the wise man who returned from exile to build a welcoming beach club.Cosy corner
Finland’s ambassador to Poland can take the heat, whether relaxing in her sauna or building relations with regional leaders.Quality of Life Survey: Metropolis now
You want a city that’s well run, delivers on life’s essentials and is fun too? This is our ranking of the top 25 in the world.
Big ideas
Urban transformation often begins on a local scale, as these inspiring initiatives proveEastern promise
Moscow has been undergoing a massive programme of urban renewal but this scheme to make the city more liveable isn’t without its costs.Local authority
Be it Brazil or Beirut, effective urban regeneration needs ideas from residents who understand their city’s problems and potential. Here’s a global line-up of innovative citizen initiatives.Europe briefing
Greece’s smart city, Poland’s left-wing mayor (and potential future president) and Lisbon’s street art.Americas briefing
A school of cities in Toronto, São Paulo tries to do dockless bikes right and can a park in South Carolina bridge racial divides?Asia Pacific briefing
Vietnam’s battle for the best city transport system, a neighbourhood makeover in Seoul and Shanghai’s riverside gets a spruce-up.Africa/Middle East briefing
Morocco injects funds into its cities’ medinas, Beirut gets some much-needed public space and Kigali’s transformation into a university town.
Space race
Few have strong opinions about ‘street furniture’ – the chairs, bins and bike-parking facilities that are tucked into our urban environment – yet its design has a profound effect on how we perceive our surroundings. We meet the city mood enhancers.Against the grain
The betc founder has never read a management book – and probably never will. Yet over the past 24 years his trusting and laidback approach has helped build an advertising giant that is not only rewriting the business rulebook but the book on Paris’s future too.Fit for purpose
Relocating its headquarters, London-based fashion label Cos adapted a historic building to suit its business needs.House proud
How a wayward woodsman became a titan of the Italian wine industry.Business briefing
The future of libraries, a canny way to navigate busy streets and the Taipei thoroughfare that's turned an entire district around.
Fresh air
With millions of listeners tuning in, the early-morning current-affairs slot is a competitive one in French radio. We hear what stations are doing to make their show stand out and set the nation up for the rest of the day.New waves
With its bustling gallery scene and artist-friendly lifestyle, Cape Town is the epicentre of new South African art.
Park life
City dwellers are turning to the pleasures of the natural world as an antidote to urban stress. We uncover the green shoots of renewal in Paris, Munich and Beirut.Stairway to heaven
The co-operative apartment block in Valencia that’s a brutalist triumph, casting a spiritual spell on its devoted residents.Bathing in glory
Summoned by the sun, students and suits alike flock to the Bains des Pâquis – and the baths’ custodians want to ensure that the water remains inviting all year round.Architecture briefing
We help Sydney improve the quality of after-life, meet the Vietnamese designers looking to the past for new solutions and venture into the dapper new showroom of an Italian design giant.
Filling up
We’ve all heard tell of Basque cuisine but what about the growers, producers and chefs plying their trade in neighbouring regions? We take a roadtrip to find out.Sating an appetite
A new venture in London has gone back to basics: launch a market, fill it with tasty food purveyors and watch as hungry customers get in line.Food & drink briefing
Food finds from Atlanta and Amsterdam, plus how to make a crab and quail egg salad.
Battle of the bulge
No menswear item is more divisive than a pair of speedos. And opinions on ‘banana hammocks’ are informed by national psyche. We reveal all.Paradise found
Escaping the bustle of Paris, a handful of designers and makers are setting up shop in Arles, reviving this quiet Provençal city’s fabled fashion traditions.Ironing out the creases
In the rough and tumble of Japan’s wash-and-go laundry market, we visit a drycleaner that values service over speed (your shirt will be back in three weeks).Fashion briefing
A new shop in Monaco and a countdown of the best sunglasses to pick up this summer.Perma style
Prevailing trends may come and go but some items and looks remain fundamental to any well-dressed wardrobe. Here we celebrate those practical, long-lasting and mood-enhancing clothes and accessories.
Still waters
Kavala doesn’t look like many other cities. The harbourside community of just over 50,000 in northern Greece has stayed small thanks to its compact geography. Once home to the Romans and later the Ottomans, today it’s an experiment in reviving urban life led by a crop of homegrown hospitality entrepreneurs.Travel briefing
From a manor next to Thomas Jefferson’s Virginia plantation to an off-grid pad out in the Swedish stix, here’s our round-up of new openings and places that have made their way onto our discerning hospitality radar.Briefing: Shop, read, listen
Folksy plates, charming ceramics and the sharpest of knives, plus a rooftop escape, the best in books and the tastiest tipples for your drinks cabinet.Best in class: Berlin
Get lost among the sheets of foam, coloured pencils and felt-tip pens at this Kreuzberg stationary empire.The directory
Where to sleep, eat and shop this month.
Issue 115
July/August 2018
At the front
Editor’s letter
We live in stormy times but sometimes a crisis is a good opportunity to change tack and set a new course. How about Zürich, Hamburg or Fukuoka? The captain of our ship weighs up the possibilities.The opener
We take a good swig of Vienna’s wonderful water and find out why ditching the car has turned our writer into a joyrider. But first: Vancouver’s mini libraries, Latin American litter pickers and Berlin’s barbecues.Back on top
A cable-car service has been brought back to life in Sarajevo. We hitch a ride in a city on the up.It’s all to play for
With World Cup fever sweeping Midori House, we’ve put together a squad of marauding mayoral superstars willing to put in 110 per cent. Ultimately goals win games and, from improving public transport to (two-footed) tackling racism, our team has no shortage of top scorers.Pump action
Proving ballet isn’t just for the young, a troupe of Auckland women in their sixties and beyond is dancing to keep fit and happy.Making waves
Venice’s emergency services – from police on patrol to doctors on call – all rely on one thing: a very fast boat.My cabinet
We meet the wise man who returned from exile to build a welcoming beach club.Cosy corner
Finland’s ambassador to Poland can take the heat, whether relaxing in her sauna or building relations with regional leaders.Quality of Life Survey: Metropolis now
You want a city that’s well run, delivers on life’s essentials and is fun too? This is our ranking of the top 25 in the world.
Affairs
Big ideas
Urban transformation often begins on a local scale, as these inspiring initiatives proveEastern promise
Moscow has been undergoing a massive programme of urban renewal but this scheme to make the city more liveable isn’t without its costs.Local authority
Be it Brazil or Beirut, effective urban regeneration needs ideas from residents who understand their city’s problems and potential. Here’s a global line-up of innovative citizen initiatives.Europe briefing
Greece’s smart city, Poland’s left-wing mayor (and potential future president) and Lisbon’s street art.Americas briefing
A school of cities in Toronto, São Paulo tries to do dockless bikes right and can a park in South Carolina bridge racial divides?Asia Pacific briefing
Vietnam’s battle for the best city transport system, a neighbourhood makeover in Seoul and Shanghai’s riverside gets a spruce-up.Africa/Middle East briefing
Morocco injects funds into its cities’ medinas, Beirut gets some much-needed public space and Kigali’s transformation into a university town.
Business
Space race
Few have strong opinions about ‘street furniture’ – the chairs, bins and bike-parking facilities that are tucked into our urban environment – yet its design has a profound effect on how we perceive our surroundings. We meet the city mood enhancers.Against the grain
The betc founder has never read a management book – and probably never will. Yet over the past 24 years his trusting and laidback approach has helped build an advertising giant that is not only rewriting the business rulebook but the book on Paris’s future too.Fit for purpose
Relocating its headquarters, London-based fashion label Cos adapted a historic building to suit its business needs.House proud
How a wayward woodsman became a titan of the Italian wine industry.Business briefing
The future of libraries, a canny way to navigate busy streets and the Taipei thoroughfare that's turned an entire district around.
Culture
Fresh air
With millions of listeners tuning in, the early-morning current-affairs slot is a competitive one in French radio. We hear what stations are doing to make their show stand out and set the nation up for the rest of the day.New waves
With its bustling gallery scene and artist-friendly lifestyle, Cape Town is the epicentre of new South African art.
Design
Park life
City dwellers are turning to the pleasures of the natural world as an antidote to urban stress. We uncover the green shoots of renewal in Paris, Munich and Beirut.Stairway to heaven
The co-operative apartment block in Valencia that’s a brutalist triumph, casting a spiritual spell on its devoted residents.Bathing in glory
Summoned by the sun, students and suits alike flock to the Bains des Pâquis – and the baths’ custodians want to ensure that the water remains inviting all year round.Architecture briefing
We help Sydney improve the quality of after-life, meet the Vietnamese designers looking to the past for new solutions and venture into the dapper new showroom of an Italian design giant.
Entertaining
Filling up
We’ve all heard tell of Basque cuisine but what about the growers, producers and chefs plying their trade in neighbouring regions? We take a roadtrip to find out.Sating an appetite
A new venture in London has gone back to basics: launch a market, fill it with tasty food purveyors and watch as hungry customers get in line.Food & drink briefing
Food finds from Atlanta and Amsterdam, plus how to make a crab and quail egg salad.
Expo
Fashion
Battle of the bulge
No menswear item is more divisive than a pair of speedos. And opinions on ‘banana hammocks’ are informed by national psyche. We reveal all.Paradise found
Escaping the bustle of Paris, a handful of designers and makers are setting up shop in Arles, reviving this quiet Provençal city’s fabled fashion traditions.Ironing out the creases
In the rough and tumble of Japan’s wash-and-go laundry market, we visit a drycleaner that values service over speed (your shirt will be back in three weeks).Fashion briefing
A new shop in Monaco and a countdown of the best sunglasses to pick up this summer.Perma style
Prevailing trends may come and go but some items and looks remain fundamental to any well-dressed wardrobe. Here we celebrate those practical, long-lasting and mood-enhancing clothes and accessories.
Inventory
Still waters
Kavala doesn’t look like many other cities. The harbourside community of just over 50,000 in northern Greece has stayed small thanks to its compact geography. Once home to the Romans and later the Ottomans, today it’s an experiment in reviving urban life led by a crop of homegrown hospitality entrepreneurs.Travel briefing
From a manor next to Thomas Jefferson’s Virginia plantation to an off-grid pad out in the Swedish stix, here’s our round-up of new openings and places that have made their way onto our discerning hospitality radar.Briefing: Shop, read, listen
Folksy plates, charming ceramics and the sharpest of knives, plus a rooftop escape, the best in books and the tastiest tipples for your drinks cabinet.Best in class: Berlin
Get lost among the sheets of foam, coloured pencils and felt-tip pens at this Kreuzberg stationary empire.The directory
Where to sleep, eat and shop this month.