Editor’s letter
Our editor in chief couldn’t quite believe what he was seeing as he made one of his regular trips through airport security recently: is one of the most tiresome travails of modern travel being revolutionised?The opener
We get toasty in Vienna, fawn over Brazil’s suited, booted football squad and consider how fashion-forward Saudi Arabia truly is. Meanwhile, where is the best place to get branded bags? It’s totes Milan.Groomy kind of love
Pooch pampering has been taken to a whole new level in Japan. We head to the country’s largest dog show, where competitive groomers have their clippers at the ready.Time and tide
An app that tracks the status of ocean-going vessels worldwide, MarineTraffic uses a network of 3,000 ship spotters to gather its maritime data.My cabinet
Barcelona’s beachside bash Primavera is going from strength to strength.Cosy corner
When the crowds thin out, South Korea’s most in‑demand leading man likes to enjoy some downtime at his favourite restaurant.
All hands on deck
Meet the crew of the Spanish medical ship bringing salvation to anyone who finds themselves in choppy waters.Can anyone fix this city?
It’s the richest and most unequal city in the US. And many voters are out for blood. As the San Francisco mayoral election heats up, one thing is clear – change had better come soon.Politics briefing
Poland’s press holds the government’s feet to the fire and Turkey heads to the polls.Diplomacy briefing
The Canadian Sherpa leading the G7 and how to design an award-winning banknote.Defence briefing
Why modern militaries are offering cushy perks to recruits and the Thai military’s surprising new mascot.Cities briefing
The duo connecting city-dwellers with nature and Athens’ city hall asks residents for ideas.Lion’s den
Despite its athletes, writers and conservation efforts winning international acclaim, Kenya’s divisions, corruption and poverty gap are curbing its potential.
The direct approach
Flying cars may ease congestion, but why not improve existing options? Here are our favourite simple solutions to get around – and between – our cities.Gearing up
City planners plotting new routes should look to these three cities for hints on how to get people moving.Ask the experts
Auckland’s mayor, a Slovenian urban planner and Taiwan’s cycling maven all have one thing in common: they want to improve the way you get from A to B.On the move
We ponder the fact that driverless cars may not be driving the future after all, celebrate the democracy of public transport and board a humble ferry – it’s the best way to get to work, says our writer. Who else gets to see whales on their daily commute?High spirits
The aviation industry is opening up to a world of possibilities (including artisan cocktails) as products designed to enhance the in-flight experience begin to take off.Radical departure
To create an aircraft cabin and transit lounge to suit the longest of all long hauls, Qantas turned to an innovative designer prepared to go the extra mile.In full flow
Shiny new infrastructure projects are often a way for mayors to broadcast their ambition and boost publicity (Garden Bridge, anyone?). But, as these five schemes show, the smartest planners present viable solutions to real problems – often without grabbing headlines.
Runway success
One Aussie family decided to build a new international airport. And now Toowoomba is going places.Turn up for the books
Bologna’s Children’s Book Fair proves that the business is anything but child’s play.Paradise aisles
By turning the weekly shop into a pleasurable, plentiful and people-focused experience, German mini-chain Zurheide is foretelling the future of the supermarket.Blue-sky thinker
An aeronautical eureka moment helped Michimasa Fujino relaunch the stalled Honda Aircraft project – and its HA-420 is now the private-aviation industry’s most sought-after jet.Business Briefing
Staying safe on Kampala’s roads and we give €5,000 to a stationery-shop entrepreneur.
Tour de force
Life as a touring musician isn’t easy. We meet the folks behind the buses that keep the show on the road.Armed response
Ah, Brexit. First there was the tense build-up, then the dramatic result, followed by the drawn-out and frequently tedious aftermath. So how do you tell the story of the UK versus the EU? We went to the frontline to find out.
Sky walkers
New York’s lauded High Line is inspiring cities worldwide to get their own elevated-pathway projects off the ground. Enjoy the view.Space exploration
The labyrinthine San Jerónimo home of Ernesto Gómez Gallardo Argüelles is a study in Mexican modernism – and a treasure trove of the polymath’s many designs.Touch wood
Conde House is a sturdy presence in Japanese wooden-furniture manufacturing that’s replanting its regional roots and retaining its traditional hands-on approach.Architecture briefing
From a Swiss school putting good architecture on its curriculum to a fix for a Warsaw eyesore.
Bounty hunters
Most restaurants in Japan are in the city but in rural Hokuriku a young crop of restaurateurs and producers are hoping diners will follow them into the wild.Message in a bottle
Vinitaly is the annual wine-industry extravaganza where insiders can get the measure of the market, buy and sell their wares, and, of course, have a taste.Food & drink briefing
Food finds from London to Montréal, plus a restorative recipe.Steven Pinker
A defiantly large steak – and all the trimmings – in an old-school Williamsburg enclave would provide sustenance for the psychology professor and author’s final musings.
Summit special
Mountainwear brand Amundsen Sports is hitting the heights with performance technology – and a hot take on the knickerbocker. We head into the hills with them.Counter: productive
He wanted to build the best fashion shop in the country. But where? He picked a town in the middle of nowhere. This is the story of the retail rebel.Fashion briefing
Our summer-shirt countdown plus new releases from Prada and Bottega Veneta.Ready for take-off
You have extra time to fix your travel look when departing from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport – it’s just a simple taxi ride from the city. So grab your wheels-up baggage, put on an easygoing jacket and take flight.Travelling light
Whether it’s for business, pleasure or a heady combination of the two, you’ll need to dress to suit the changing seasons on your forthcoming trips. Have a breeze through our considered selection.
If you build it, they will come
From how to create a welcoming lobby with just the right amount of hubbub to who to hire to tend your kitchen, here is our advice for budding hoteliers looking to create a spot that is welcoming for both locals and out-of-town visitors. Our top tip? Invest in up-and-coming talent and solid design – and above all, keep it simple.The Principal
With its imposing 19th-century architecture, madcap marble interior, tasteful public areas and lively restaurants and bars, The Principal feels far more mature than most London openings of late. We book in and get a taste of the grown-up life in this enormous Bloomsbury lodging.Travel briefing
Whether you need to get away from it all or be at the heart of the action you’ll find a room to suit in our inventory of accommodation. There are revamped farmsteads in Japan and New Zealand, a sustainable stay in Singapore and a flagship reopening in Paris.City guide: Gwangju
Always a bastion of progressive thinking, South Korea’s sixth-largest city is now luring a youthful and innovative crowd to its attractive streets.Briefing: Shop, read, listen
Dutch fashion, Japanese wine and some sustainable ventures, plus smart reads and a few devilish accessories for your living room and kitchen.Best in class: Marseille
For almost 200 YEARS, Maison Empereur has catered to its customers’ everyday needs by stocking an abundance of fine, French-produced, practical – and playful – goods.The directory
Where to sleep, eat and shop this month.
Issue 114
June 2018
At the front
Editor’s letter
Our editor in chief couldn’t quite believe what he was seeing as he made one of his regular trips through airport security recently: is one of the most tiresome travails of modern travel being revolutionised?The opener
We get toasty in Vienna, fawn over Brazil’s suited, booted football squad and consider how fashion-forward Saudi Arabia truly is. Meanwhile, where is the best place to get branded bags? It’s totes Milan.Groomy kind of love
Pooch pampering has been taken to a whole new level in Japan. We head to the country’s largest dog show, where competitive groomers have their clippers at the ready.Time and tide
An app that tracks the status of ocean-going vessels worldwide, MarineTraffic uses a network of 3,000 ship spotters to gather its maritime data.My cabinet
Barcelona’s beachside bash Primavera is going from strength to strength.Cosy corner
When the crowds thin out, South Korea’s most in‑demand leading man likes to enjoy some downtime at his favourite restaurant.
Affairs
All hands on deck
Meet the crew of the Spanish medical ship bringing salvation to anyone who finds themselves in choppy waters.Can anyone fix this city?
It’s the richest and most unequal city in the US. And many voters are out for blood. As the San Francisco mayoral election heats up, one thing is clear – change had better come soon.Politics briefing
Poland’s press holds the government’s feet to the fire and Turkey heads to the polls.Diplomacy briefing
The Canadian Sherpa leading the G7 and how to design an award-winning banknote.Defence briefing
Why modern militaries are offering cushy perks to recruits and the Thai military’s surprising new mascot.Cities briefing
The duo connecting city-dwellers with nature and Athens’ city hall asks residents for ideas.Lion’s den
Despite its athletes, writers and conservation efforts winning international acclaim, Kenya’s divisions, corruption and poverty gap are curbing its potential.
Transport Survey
The direct approach
Flying cars may ease congestion, but why not improve existing options? Here are our favourite simple solutions to get around – and between – our cities.Gearing up
City planners plotting new routes should look to these three cities for hints on how to get people moving.Ask the experts
Auckland’s mayor, a Slovenian urban planner and Taiwan’s cycling maven all have one thing in common: they want to improve the way you get from A to B.On the move
We ponder the fact that driverless cars may not be driving the future after all, celebrate the democracy of public transport and board a humble ferry – it’s the best way to get to work, says our writer. Who else gets to see whales on their daily commute?High spirits
The aviation industry is opening up to a world of possibilities (including artisan cocktails) as products designed to enhance the in-flight experience begin to take off.Radical departure
To create an aircraft cabin and transit lounge to suit the longest of all long hauls, Qantas turned to an innovative designer prepared to go the extra mile.In full flow
Shiny new infrastructure projects are often a way for mayors to broadcast their ambition and boost publicity (Garden Bridge, anyone?). But, as these five schemes show, the smartest planners present viable solutions to real problems – often without grabbing headlines.
Business
Runway success
One Aussie family decided to build a new international airport. And now Toowoomba is going places.Turn up for the books
Bologna’s Children’s Book Fair proves that the business is anything but child’s play.Paradise aisles
By turning the weekly shop into a pleasurable, plentiful and people-focused experience, German mini-chain Zurheide is foretelling the future of the supermarket.Blue-sky thinker
An aeronautical eureka moment helped Michimasa Fujino relaunch the stalled Honda Aircraft project – and its HA-420 is now the private-aviation industry’s most sought-after jet.Business Briefing
Staying safe on Kampala’s roads and we give €5,000 to a stationery-shop entrepreneur.
Culture
Tour de force
Life as a touring musician isn’t easy. We meet the folks behind the buses that keep the show on the road.Armed response
Ah, Brexit. First there was the tense build-up, then the dramatic result, followed by the drawn-out and frequently tedious aftermath. So how do you tell the story of the UK versus the EU? We went to the frontline to find out.
Design
Sky walkers
New York’s lauded High Line is inspiring cities worldwide to get their own elevated-pathway projects off the ground. Enjoy the view.Space exploration
The labyrinthine San Jerónimo home of Ernesto Gómez Gallardo Argüelles is a study in Mexican modernism – and a treasure trove of the polymath’s many designs.Touch wood
Conde House is a sturdy presence in Japanese wooden-furniture manufacturing that’s replanting its regional roots and retaining its traditional hands-on approach.Architecture briefing
From a Swiss school putting good architecture on its curriculum to a fix for a Warsaw eyesore.
Expo
Entertaining
Bounty hunters
Most restaurants in Japan are in the city but in rural Hokuriku a young crop of restaurateurs and producers are hoping diners will follow them into the wild.Message in a bottle
Vinitaly is the annual wine-industry extravaganza where insiders can get the measure of the market, buy and sell their wares, and, of course, have a taste.Food & drink briefing
Food finds from London to Montréal, plus a restorative recipe.Steven Pinker
A defiantly large steak – and all the trimmings – in an old-school Williamsburg enclave would provide sustenance for the psychology professor and author’s final musings.
Fashion
Summit special
Mountainwear brand Amundsen Sports is hitting the heights with performance technology – and a hot take on the knickerbocker. We head into the hills with them.Counter: productive
He wanted to build the best fashion shop in the country. But where? He picked a town in the middle of nowhere. This is the story of the retail rebel.Fashion briefing
Our summer-shirt countdown plus new releases from Prada and Bottega Veneta.Ready for take-off
You have extra time to fix your travel look when departing from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport – it’s just a simple taxi ride from the city. So grab your wheels-up baggage, put on an easygoing jacket and take flight.Travelling light
Whether it’s for business, pleasure or a heady combination of the two, you’ll need to dress to suit the changing seasons on your forthcoming trips. Have a breeze through our considered selection.
Inventory
If you build it, they will come
From how to create a welcoming lobby with just the right amount of hubbub to who to hire to tend your kitchen, here is our advice for budding hoteliers looking to create a spot that is welcoming for both locals and out-of-town visitors. Our top tip? Invest in up-and-coming talent and solid design – and above all, keep it simple.The Principal
With its imposing 19th-century architecture, madcap marble interior, tasteful public areas and lively restaurants and bars, The Principal feels far more mature than most London openings of late. We book in and get a taste of the grown-up life in this enormous Bloomsbury lodging.Travel briefing
Whether you need to get away from it all or be at the heart of the action you’ll find a room to suit in our inventory of accommodation. There are revamped farmsteads in Japan and New Zealand, a sustainable stay in Singapore and a flagship reopening in Paris.City guide: Gwangju
Always a bastion of progressive thinking, South Korea’s sixth-largest city is now luring a youthful and innovative crowd to its attractive streets.Briefing: Shop, read, listen
Dutch fashion, Japanese wine and some sustainable ventures, plus smart reads and a few devilish accessories for your living room and kitchen.Best in class: Marseille
For almost 200 YEARS, Maison Empereur has catered to its customers’ everyday needs by stocking an abundance of fine, French-produced, practical – and playful – goods.The directory
Where to sleep, eat and shop this month.