July/August - Issue 165 - Magazine | Monocle
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James Chambers on the Chinese city’s spotless façade and the welcome grime just beneath its surface.

Chinese cities are not renowned for being tidy places but my first experience of visiting the country since the pandemic was a reminder that this is no bad thing. Jiangjin is a satellite city of Chongqing in which about a million people live on the banks of the Yangtze and the doorstep of modernity. Down by the water’s edge, residents wash the dust from their clothes (the style is more 1990s Hong Kong than present-day Seoul), while cargo ships sail…

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